省的位置与分解使用对合体女上装胸部造型的影响  

Effect of dart′s position and decomposition on chest modeling of fit female jacket

作　　者：姚怡[1] 孙洁[1] 吴志明[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《天津工业大学学报》2011年第6期24-27,共4页Journal of Tiangong University

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究项目资金资助(09YJA760015)

摘　　要：针对标准人台设计了9种不同的省,采用三维人体测量仪截取纵向截面,研究不同位置的省和省的分解使用对合体女上装前身胸部造型的影响.分类比较结果表明:省的位置对胸部造型的丰满程度具有一定的作用,肩省、领省合体,侧省最为平缓;省分解使用时胸部造型效果较好,撇胸可以使胸部造型更好,但与侧省结合使用时效果不明显.The nine different schemes of the dart are formulated basing on the standard model form, and three-dimensional scanner is used to get longitudinal section. The influence of dart on the chest modeling of the fit female jacket are discussed by researching different positions of darts and the decomposition of the dart. By sorting and comparison, it is concluded that： The position of the dart could affect the chest plump modeling, shoulder dart and neck dart are more fit, and side dart is smoother; and the decomposition of the dart can make the chest modeling better, front cuts can make the chest modeling better and the effect of side dart combined with front cuts is not obvious.

关 键 词：合体 女上装 省 胸部造型 

分 类 号：TS941.863.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]