羊毛的形与尺度对起毛起球的作用  

Effects of wool morphology and diameter on fuzzing and pilling

作　　者：于伟东[1,2] 万爱兰[1] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织材料与技术实验室,上海210620 [2]嘉兴学院服装与艺术设计学院,浙江嘉兴314001

出　　处：《纺织学报》2012年第1期144-150,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：浙江省科技厅重大技术专项资助项目(2008C01069);东华大学博士学位论文创新基金资助项目(10D10118)

摘　　要：针对羊毛针织物起毛起球问题,对羊毛的外观形态、空间造型、表面形态与作用即长度、粗细、鳞片形态与表面摩擦和硬度等形和一定取值范围的尺度范畴及其对毛织物起毛起球的影响进行总结,并回顾前人在这些方面的研究成果,以说明羊毛的形与尺度的重要性。建议确定纤维本身抗起毛起球的形参数临界值和最优值,并作为评价指标,使其不仅成为羊毛买卖中定价和改良羊种获得优质羊毛的重要依据,而且成为预防起毛起球进行的选配毛和纺纱加工的重要参数。同时提示这方面的研究将有利于抗起毛起球这一经典问题的解决和突破。To investigate and relieve the pilling propertity of knitted wool fabrics, the effects of wool morphology such as length, diameter, scale morphology, surface friction and roughness and spatial structure on fuzzing and pilling of knitted wool fabrics were discussed and previous research findings in this respect were reviewed with purposes of emphasizing the importance of wool morphology and diameter. It is suggested that the critical value and optimum value of the morphology parameters for anti-pilling of wool fiber itself should be determined and taken as the evaluation indexes that may be used the important basis for making offer in trading of wool and for reforming the specimens of sheep in feeding, as well as the important parameters for wool selection, wool matching and spinning for anti-pilling. This research will contribute to the solving of the classic problem of fuzzing and pilling of wool fabrics.

关 键 词：羊毛 形 起毛起球 卷曲 鳞片高度 直径 长度 

分 类 号：TS1[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]