色织双丝光针织面料的生产工艺  

Production of colored-yarn knitted two-time mercerized fabric

作　　者：俞鸿滨 

机构地区：[1]卡迈雅科技股份有限公司,浙江宁波315000

出　　处：《针织工业》2012年第1期23-27,72,共5页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：色织双丝光针织面料生产过程包括原料的选择,纱线的烧毛、丝光及染色,色纱织造,色织坯布的烧毛、丝光、后整理以及成品布的检验与包装。指出工艺的关键点如下:可通过先试样,以最终成品面料的品质来检验原料(坯纱)是否达标;纱线烧毛选用机电一体化烧毛机;成绞丝光后,为避免湿绞纱内部碱浓度的上升,应尽量快速进入绞纱染色环节;染色前处理中无需加碱;染色后选用高质量的圆机进行织造;然后进行色织布的平幅气体烧毛、平幅丝光和绳状水洗;并在轧水开幅、无张力烘干后进行拉幅定形和拉幅预缩,配合使用柔软平滑剂以确保布匹的手感和品质;最后包装时,应尽量减少色织双丝光布直向张力的产生。The producing process of colored-yarn knitted two-time mercerized fabric includes selection of raw materials,singeing of yarns,colored-yarn knitting,singeing of colored-yarn knitted gray cloth,mercerizing,post-treatment,inspection of ready-made goods and packaging.It can be concluded that the inspection of raw materials can be done according to the sample's quality;the singeing process can be carried on the mechanical and electrical integrated singeing machine;after the skein is mercerized,the skein dyeing should be done right now in order to avoid the increase of alkali's concentration in the skein;it is not necessary to apply alkali in the pretreatment before dyeing;the knitting process should be carried on the high quality flat bar knitting machine;then the open-width air-singeing,open-width mercerizing and rope washing should be carried on to the colored yarn knitted fabric;after squeezing expanding and tension-free drying,tentering setting and tentering pre-shrinkage should be done,which combines the application of softening smooth agent to assure good hand and quality of fabric;at last,the length-wise tension should be avoided in the packaging process.

关 键 词：色织双丝光针织面料 绞纱 烧毛 染色 丝光 色纱 圆机织造 

分 类 号：TS190.65[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]