轻薄保暖弹性针织面料的开发与染整加工  

Development and dyeing & finishing of warmth-retentive shear knitted fabric

作　　者：邓煜 王思捷 

机构地区：[1]互太纺织印染有限公司,广东广州511462

出　　处：《针织工业》2012年第2期28-31,73-74,共4页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：介绍了使用超细牛奶蛋白腈纶、竹黏纤维、改性涤纶长丝与易定形莱卡纤维开发的轻薄保暖弹性针织面料的染整加工流程。指出选择活性染料Sumifix对竹黏纤维进行染色,并选用配伍性好的阳离子染料对超细牛奶蛋白腈纶与改性涤纶长丝可进行同浴染色,染色温度110℃,严格控制升降温速率、排水温度等因素,可以解决这两种纤维染色的同向性和均匀性问题,改善布面起皱和折痕现象。采用预定形和成品定形可改善布面起皱、手感和提高织物的尺寸稳定性,预定形温度170℃,10 s;成品定形温度140℃,20 s。检测数据表明,按此染整加工流程生产的面料色差、色牢度较好,布面尺寸性稳定,并具有速干、抗菌防臭、保温和抗起毛起球性能。This paper introduces the dyeing and finishing process of the warmth-retentive shear elastic fabric knitted by ultra-fine milk protein acrylic fiber,bamboo viscose fiber,modified polyester filament and easy-setting Lycra fiber.The research results show that the bamboo viscose fiber can be dyed by reactive dye-Sumifix,and one bath dyeing of easy-matching cationic dyes can be made to the milk protein acrylic fiber and modified polyester filament with a dyeing temperature of 110 ℃ and the uniformity and same dyeing direction can be assured if the increasing and decreasing rate of temperature and dewatering temperature can be controlled strictly,and accordingly the wrinkles and creases can be improved.In addition,the presetting and final setting process can also remove wrinkles and improve hand and size stability.The presetting temperature is 170 ℃ for 10 seconds,and the final setting temperature is 140 ℃ for 20 seconds.The testing data also show that this dyeing and finishing technology can produce satisfied color deviation and better fastness and size stability.Furthermore,the fast-dry,anti-bacterial,odor resistant and anti-pilling properties are all improved.

关 键 词：超细牛奶蛋白腈纶 竹黏纤维 改性涤纶长丝 易定形莱卡纤维 轻薄保暖弹性针织物 

分 类 号：TS190.65[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]