羊毛与丽赛纤维混纺针织物的染整加工  

Dyeing and finishing of wool and Richcel blended yarn knitted fabric

作　　者：何丽清[1] 沈细周[1] 

机构地区：[1]广东纺织职业技术学院轻化工程系,广东佛山528041

出　　处：《针织工业》2012年第2期32-36,74,共5页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：介绍了丽赛纤维,并将其与莫代尔、天丝、棉等纤维进行了性能比较,且以羊毛与丽赛纤维混纺针织物(50∶50)为例,阐述了其染整加工。结果表明,使用高效精练酶T以及退煮酶L1或L2对羊毛与丽赛纤维混纺针织物进行练漂,可较好地去除杂质又不损伤纤维;选择使用Cibacron FN三原色染料进行染色,60℃染色时,活性染料Cibacron FN型对羊毛与丽赛纤维混纺针织物的染色同色性好;羊毛与丽赛纤维混纺针织物对盐的用量和浴比略为敏感一些,碱对活性染料上染丽赛纤维的影响比对羊毛的影响大,染色后必须充分皂煮以去除丽赛纤维上的浮色;后整理中应注意各工序参数设定以使羊毛与丽赛纤维混纺针织物的风格特点充分体现。This paper introduces the aspects of Richcel,compares it with Modal,Tencel and cotton,and then presents its dyeing and finishing technology by taking its wool blended(50∶50) knitted fabric as an example.The research results show that the scouring and bleaching by high efficient scouring enzyme T and desizing enzyme L1 or L2 can better remove impurities but without impairing fibers;the three primary color dye-reactive dye Cibacron FN can be applied to achieve a better same color effect with dyeing temperature of 60 ℃;the dyeing of wool/ Richcel belended knitted fabric is more or less sensitive to the applied amount of salt and bath ratio value,the alkali influences the dye-uptake of Richcel fiber more than that of wool fiber and thus the soaping process must be applied in order to remove the loose color on Richcel fibers;and in the post-finishing process,the boiling,setting and applying of hydrophilic softener should be conducted in order to fully embody the styles and characteristics of wool/ Richcel belnded knitted fabric.

关 键 词：丽赛纤维 羊毛 混纺针织物 莫代尔 波里诺西纤维 活性染料 

分 类 号：TS190.65[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]