风浪和涌浪分离方法的比较  

Comparisons on partitioning techniques to identify wind-wave and swell

作　　者：李水清[1] 赵栋梁[1] 

机构地区：[1]中国海洋大学物理海洋研究所,山东青岛266100

出　　处：《海洋学报》2012年第2期23-29,共7页

基　　金：国家自然科学基金(41076007);国家重点基础研究发展计划("973"计划)项目(2009CB421201)资助

摘　　要：海浪通常以风浪和涌浪混合的形式存在。文中利用模型试验和实测资料,对目前提出的一种二维谱风涌浪分离方法(2D法)和3种一维谱风涌浪分离方法(PM法、WH法、JP法)进行了检验,分析发现:2D法给出的结果整体而言最为可靠,与2D法相比,PM法明显高估了风浪成分,WH法低风速时高估了风浪,高风速时跟2D法比较接近,而JP法在整体上高估了风浪成分。通过调整分割频率的比例系数,改进了PM法,改进后的PM法给出的分离结果与2D法最为一致。The ocean waves are generally a mixer of wind-wave and swell.In this paper,a two-dimensional（2D） wave spectrum partitioning techniques and three one-dimensional（1D） wave spectrum partitioning techniques（i.e.PM technique,WH technique,JP technique） used to identify wind-wave and swell are examined based on the model results and the observations,it is shown that the 2D technique could provide most reliable results;compared with 2D technique,PM technique obviously overestimates the wind-wave components,WH technique overestimates the energy of wind-wave at low wind speed,while shows better agreement with 2D technique at higher winds,overestimations also occur in the case of JP technique;PM technique is modified to show better agreement with the 2D scheme,it is found that the improved PM technique provides most consistent results with the 2D scheme among the 1D techniques.

关 键 词：风浪 涌浪 分离 海浪 频谱 

分 类 号：P731.32[天文地球—海洋科学]