绣花效果面料的提花实现研究与产品开发  

Research and product development of jacquard fabric imitating the embroidered effec

作　　者：李启正[1] 张红霞[1] 祝成炎[1] 马廷方 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,杭州310018 [2]杭州万事利丝绸科技有限公司,杭州310021

出　　处：《丝绸》2012年第4期41-44,共4页Journal of Silk

基　　金：浙江省技术创新重点项目(浙经信技术[2009]56号)

摘　　要：通过分析典型绣花面料,探讨了直针绣电脑绣花织物外观效果的技术特征。对一种能够应用于仿绣提花织物设计的通用组织结构进行研究和分析,探讨了绣花效果与组织配合之间的关系。从织物组织结构设计出发,配合上机工艺,提出了一种能在常规单经轴、常规经纬密等条件下即可实施,且能够应用于仿直针绣提花织物设计的通用组织结构安排设计方法,采用表里经比例为3∶1的特殊双层空心组织结构,使平地与高花形成强对比效果,通过提花工艺实现了绣花工艺的效果,为绣花产品与提花产品的融合开辟了一条新的道路,具有很大的市场潜力。This study introduced the appearance effect and technical characteristics of the straight stitch computer embroidery fabrics through the analysis of the representative embroidered fabrics. An allpurpose weave structure design method which can be carried out under the traditional single warp beam and normal warp and weft density was proposed through the research of the fabric effect with its weave structure. This weave design method could make the jacquard fabric imitated embroidered effect which adopts a special double layer weave with surface and back warp distribution of 3 ： 1, forming a sharp contrast. The jacquard technology helps realize the effect of the embroidered effect and opens a new road for the integration of the embroidered and the jacquard products. It has great market potentials. This paper also summarized the weaving technology through practice.

关 键 词：绣花 提花 直针绣 组织设计 

分 类 号：TS145.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计] TS935.2[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]