薄型丝织物缝纫缩皱与缝纫线纤度及施加张力的关系  

Relationship between sewing thread fineness and external tension of thin silk fabric seam pucker

作　　者：武利利[1] 吴巧英[1,2] 冯婉婉[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学服装学院,杭州310018 [2]东华大学服装.艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《丝绸》2012年第6期31-35,共5页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：选取30种服装生产中常用的薄型丝织物,采用不同的缝纫线和施加不同的张力并保持其他缝纫条件不变,测试不同缝纫工艺参数下薄型丝织物的缝缩率和缝皱等级,探讨了各缝纫工艺参数对缝纫平整度的影响。研究结果表明:对于薄型丝织物,涤802线的缝纫平整度好于涤602线。改变缝纫线细度,可以改善缝纫外观平整度,但效果不明显。缝纫中对缝条施加的外张力对薄型丝织物缝纫外观质量影响显著,增加张力能减少面料缝缩,降低主观缝皱感,改善缝纫外观质量。30 kinds of thin silk fabric, which are commonly used in garment production, were chosen to test the sewing shrinkage and seam pucker of thin silk fabric on the condition of different sewing parameters and discuss the impact of sewing parameters on seam pucker evaluation by using different sewing threads and exerting different level of external tensions on the condition that other sewing requirements were kept the same. According to result, it is found that the degree of sewing plainness of polyester thread 802# was better than that of polyester thread 602#. The degree of sewing plainness can be changed by changing the fineness of sewing thread, but the effect is not obvious. In the process of sewing, the external tension added on the sewing thread has significant impact on the sewing quality of appearance for thin silk fabric. In addition, the increase of tension can not only reduce sewing shrinkage of fabric but also decrease subjective sewing pucker and improve the sewing quality of appearance.

关 键 词：缝纫工艺参数 缝纫条件 缩皱 轻薄丝织物 

分 类 号：TS941.634[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]