天丝针织光洁面料的生产工艺设计  

Production technology design of Tencel knitted clean fabric

作　　者：杨惠卿 

机构地区：[1]江苏AB集团股份有限公司,江苏昆山215347

出　　处：《针织工业》2012年第6期33-35,73,共3页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：为防止天丝（Tencel）针织光洁面料的原纤化，从原料、组织结构、织造、染整方面进行了工艺分析和讨论。实践表明，选用Tencel-A100纤维、加大纱线和织物组织结构的紧密度可从源头上降低面料的原纤化趋势；织造前应做好各部件的检查，控制车间温度28℃，湿度80％-90％，并合理调节进纱和下机卷布张力：染整加工时应全程使用润滑剂，降低载布量至染色机设定容量的60％以下，并采取80。90℃的轻漂前处理工艺，染料选用具有能与纤维产生交联作用的活性染料，然后合理进行酶洗、平幅树脂整理和平幅预缩整理．最后检测显示．生产出的Tencel针织光洁面料抗起毛起球性达到4级．In order to avoid the fibrillation of Tencel knitted clean fabric,this paper makes a discussion and analysis in terms of raw materials,structures,knitting process,dyeing and finishing.The research results show that the Tencel-A100 can be selected,and improvement of tightness of both yarn and fabric structure can reduce the fibrillation trend just from the beginning;before knitting,a careful inspection to machines parts is required,the workshop temperature should be kept at 28 ℃ and humidity at 80%~90%,and the feeding tension and take-away tension should be controlled reasonably;the lubricant should be applied in the dyeing and finishing process,the load of dyeing machine should be kept at lower than 60% of the capacity,the pretreatment of slight bleaching should be made at 80~90 ℃,the reactive dye should be selected with cross-linking with fiber,and then the enzyme washing,flat resin finishing and flat pre-shrinkage finishing should be allied.It is also found that the anti-pilling property of the developed clean fabric reaches Class 4.

关 键 词：天丝(Tencel) 原纤化 光洁面料 染色 酶洗 树脂整理 预缩整理 

分 类 号：TS190.65[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]