精纺毛织物最大缝缩率与面料的纱向角度相关性模型的讨论  

The Discussion of the Relativity Model of Maximum Sew Shrinkage by Sewing Worsted Fabric and the Fabric's Yarn Angle

作　　者：刘冠彬[1,2] 王玉岭[2] 张文斌[2] 

机构地区：[1]厦门理工学院设计艺术系,福建厦门361024 [2]东华大学服装和艺术设计学院,上海200051

出　　处：《东华大学学报（自然科学版）》2012年第3期303-307,共5页Journal of Donghua University(Natural Science)

摘　　要：在精纺毛织物缝合工艺体系中,缝边的不同纱向角度对缝合的最大缝缩率的影响是结构和工艺立体配伍的基础.为构建最大缝缩率的理论方程,从力学平衡角度探讨面料力学性能对缝缩率的影响,分析不同纱向角度的面料之间缝合最大缝缩率的关系.研究表明,在纱向角度为0°～45°时,面料的最大缝缩率随纱向角度的增大而增大;在纱向角度为45°～90°时,面料的最大缝缩率随纱向角度的增大而减小.试验验证结果表明,本文提出的轻薄精纺毛织物不同纱向角度面料最大缝缩率理论模型具有一定的实用操作性.In the worsted fabrics suture technical system , different seam yarn angles lead to different maximum sew shrinkage , which is the foundation of the compatibility between structure and technician.In order to get the theory equation of the maximum sew shrinkage , the effects of the fabric mechanical properties to the maximum sew shrinkage are discussed based on the mechanical balance.The effects of the yarn angles to the maximum sew shrinkage are also analyzed.The research result indicates that while the yarn angle is 0°-4 5° , the maximum sew shrinkage of fabric is increased with the increase of yarn angle , but decreased while the yarn angle is 4 5°-9 0°.The experiment verifies that the proposed worsted fabric with different yarn angle of maximum sew shrinkage theoretical model has certain practical operation.

关 键 词：精纺毛织物 最大缝缩率 纱向角度 面料力学性能 

分 类 号：TS941.63[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]