传统小岞节约衫的缝制技艺  

Sewing skills research of traditional Jieyue blouse in Xiaozuo

作　　者：罗静[1] 崔荣荣[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2012年第8期108-113,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家社科基金青年项目(10CZS003);教育部社会科学基金规划项目(09YJA760014)

摘　　要：主要从结构和缝制技艺方面入手,对传统小岞节约衫进行研究。小岞节约衫是惠安女服饰的重要组成部分,其款式、结构和缝制技艺彰显出自身的民俗文化特征。采用田野调查的形式,观摩并记录了一款典型小岞节约衫的缝制工艺流程,在主体缝制和细节设计时深入剖析蕴育其中的缝制技艺,得出小岞节约衫在遵循传统造物观念基础上所体现的技术性、技巧性和艺术特征,客观反映小岞人安定平稳的审美心理和协调统一的审美观念,并以此表达对美好生活的寄愿。The paper researched traditional Jieyue blouses in Xiaozuo from the aspects of its structure and sewing skills. As an important part of the Huian females clothing, Xiaozuo Jieyue blouse＇s design, structure and sewing skills reflect its own cultural characteristics. The paper uses the form of field survey, and records the sewing process of one typical Xiaozuo Jieyue blouse, then further analyzes the sewing skills that are contained in body sewing and detail design. We can draw a conclusion that Xiaozuo Jieyue blouse shows the technical skills and artistic characteristics on the basis of following traditional concept of creation, and reflects the stable and peaceful aesthetic psychology and harmonious aesthetic ideas of Xiaozuo people, expressing their good wish to life.

关 键 词：小岞节约衫 结构 工艺流程 工艺技艺 艺术特征 

分 类 号：TS941.6[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]