中西服装开衩比较研究  

Comparative study on slits in Chinese and Western clothing

作　　者：高磊[1] 陈莹[1] 

机构地区：[1]上海工程技术大学服装学院,上海201620

出　　处：《丝绸》2012年第7期69-73,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：上海市教委科研创新项目(人文社科类)(B-8901-11-010)

摘　　要：从中西两条服装发展线路对开衩的演变进行了较为深入的探讨,并进行了两者间的比较,发现两者间存在着明显的差异:中国传统服装总体风格含蓄、内敛,规矩,西方服装总体风格奔放、夸张,实效。中西方开衩元素特征的差异从一定程度上反映了中西服饰文化及审美情趣的差异。中西方服装开衩经过长时期的发展,所凝练出的形式与风格已成为中西方服饰文化的象征性典型元素,已经被设计师们大量应用于现代时装创新设计之中。研究认为开衩作为服装设计元素在现代服装设计的应用中已淡化了中西方的归属化特征,但其内含的象征性仍值得关注并加以合理化应用。This thesis analyzes the evolution of slits in Chinese and Western clothing and implemented between the two. The differences between the two are shown as follows. Generally, the style of Chinese traditional clothing is implicit restrained and mannered. However, Western clothing focuses on bold, unrestrained, exaggerated and practical style. The difference of slits between Chinese and Western clothing reflects the differences of culture and aesthetics between China and the West. After long-time development of slits in Chinese and Western clothing, their forms and styles have become representative elements of Chinese and Western clothing so that designers have applied them to the innovative design of modern garments. According to researches, as an element of garment design, the application of slits to modern dress designing has desalted the feature of Chinese and Western attribution. However, its symbolic meaning is still worth paying attention to and using reasonably.

关 键 词：中西 服装 开衩 比较 

分 类 号：TS941.12[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]