南京长干寺出土的平经暗花丝织物研究  

A study on damasks excavated from Nanjing Changgan Temple relic

作　　者：蔡欣[1,2] 苏淼[1] 赵丰[3,2] 白宁 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院,杭州310018 [2]东华大学服装学院,上海200051 [3]中国丝绸博物馆纺织品文物保护国家文物局重点科研基地,杭州310002 [4]南京市博物馆,南京210004

出　　处：《丝绸》2012年第8期52-56,共5页Journal of Silk

基　　金：国家科技支撑计划课题(2009BAK53B07)

摘　　要：研究并分析了南京长干寺出土的平经类暗花丝织物实物,认为北宋时期,平纹地暗花织物的织造大多使用多综多蹑机,纹样简洁,花回小;斜纹地暗花织物的织造很可能使用束综提花机,以便生产出更大花回更多造型的组合纹样;中国古代传统的G-G显花技术仍被广泛采用,到辽宋以并丝织法织绫为最;织物艺术风格的淡然回归,织物织造技术的锐意进取当归功于北宋鼎盛繁荣之文化与空前发展之科技。最后推测性总结出北宋时期此类丝织品的纹样风格及决定其纹样风貌的织造工艺。After studying and analyzing the damasks excavated from Nanjing Changgan Temple, tlis thesis deems that plain weave fabrics with incised flowers and simple patterns were mainly produced by multi-heddle ＆ step hand looms and the twill fabrics with incised flowers were made by jacquard to produce fabrics with combined patterns, larger flowers and more styles in Northern Song Dynasty. The traditional G-G warp-floated technology of Ancient China is widely used. In Liao Dynasty and Song Dynasty, the silk weaving was the most popular. The regression of artistic style and the improvement of weaving skills for fabrics result from the prosperous culture and advanced technology in Northern Song Dynasty. Finally, it speculates and summarizes the styles of the pattern for this kind of silk fabrics and the weaving technology that decides its patterns.

关 键 词：平经暗花丝织物:纹样风格 织造工艺 长干寺 北宋 

分 类 号：K876.9[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学]