基于系统聚类法的多组分混纺织物风格分析  

Analysis on style of multi-component blended fabrics based on clustering method

作　　者：陈志蕾[1] 吴鲜鲜[1] 张红霞[1] 李艳清[1] 祝成炎[1] 王荣根 方挺进 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江越隆控股集团有限公司,浙江绍兴312032

出　　处：《纺织学报》2012年第9期50-54,60,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家科技支撑计划项目(2007BAE28B03);浙江省重大科技专项项目(2008C11071-2)

摘　　要：采用PTT、PLA、Cooldry、三角异形涤纶丝、棉和亚麻等原料,按不同比例混纺试制了5个系列13种织物。采用FAST织物风格仪测试触觉风格的性能指标,运用系统聚类法对测试结果进行聚类分析,探讨纱线线密度、纤维成分及组织结构与织物风格特性之间的关系。结果表明:在一定范围内,亚麻纤维替代棉纤维可以不影响织物风格;组织结构的较大差异会引起织物风格的不同,而较相似的组织结构对织物风格的影响相对较小;纱线线密度、纤维成分对织物风格存在一定的影响。PTT,PLA,Cooldry,triangular shaped polyester yarn,cotton and linen were selected as the materials and 13 fabrics in five series were woven according to different blending proportions.The performance indicators of fabric tactile style were tested by using FAST instrument and the test results were examined by cluster analysis.The correlation of linear density of yarn,fiber content,weave construction and fabric style were discussed.The results showed that within a certain range,replacing cotton with linen may not affect the style of fabric;big difference in the weave construction can cause different fabric style,the impact on the fabric style is relatively small with similar weave construction;and linear density of yarn and fiber content have a certain influence on the fabric style.

关 键 词：混纺织物 织物风格 FAST仪 系统聚类分析 

分 类 号：TS156[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]