皮肤美白剂活性的化学评价研究  

Study of Chemical Evaluation of the Activity of Skin Lighteners

作　　者：刘宇红[1] 李才广[1] 彭金乱[1] 

机构地区：[1]北京工商大学化工系,北京100037

出　　处：《精细化工》2000年第6期318-320,368,共4页Fine Chemicals

摘　　要：采用化学评价法 ,即通过测定皮肤美白剂对酪氨酸酶的活性抑制率 ,对目前常用的 6种皮肤美白剂的活性进行了评价 ,并与氢醌进行比较 ,得出 :( 1)各美白剂对酪氨酸酶活性的最高抑制率 ( 3 5h下 ) ,按由大到小次序排列如下 :氢醌 ( 98 3% ) >Biowhite( 90 5 % ) >Vc( 88 2 % )≥熊果苷 ( 87 8% )≥曲酸 ( 86 2 % ) >Vc磷酸酯钠 (自制 ,72 9% )≥Vc磷酸酯钠 (进口 ,72 7% ) >Vc磷酸酯镁 ( 41 1% )。探讨了美白剂活性评价与酪氨酸酶抑制率高低的关系。 ( 2 )得出各美白剂的ICmax( 3 5h下 )。 ( 3)得出美白剂作用时间与其酪氨酸酶抑制率关系曲线 ,该曲线表明 ,美白剂对酪氨酸酶的抑制率随其作用时间的增加而增加 ,时间过短将影响美白效果。采用自制酪氨酸酶体系进行评价 。The activity of six kinds of skin lighteners in common use were evaluated and compared with hydroquinone by chemical method,i.e. by determining inhibitory activity against tyrosinase.The results were:(1) The order of highest inhibitory activity of each skin lighteners against tyrosinase (for 35 h) was that hydroquinone(983%)>Biowhite (905%)>Vc(882%)≥arbutin(878%)≥kojic acid(862%)>sodium Lascorbic acid2phosphate(homemade,729%)≥sodium Lascorbic acid2phosphate(made abroad,727%)>magnesium Lascorbic acid2phosphate( 41.1 %).The relation between activity evaluation of lightener and the value of inhibitory activity against tyrosinase was discussed.(2) IC max (for 35h) of each lightener was obtained.(3) The diagram of relation between inhibitory activities against tyrosinase and reacting time of lighteners showed that the inhibitory activities against tyrosinase increased with the reacting time of lighteners.The effect of skin lightening would decrease without enough reacting time.It was confirmed to be an effective and economical method to evaluate lighteners with selfmade tyrosinase system.

关 键 词：皮肤美白剂 活性 化学评价 化妆品 

分 类 号：TQ658.2[化学工程—精细化工]