崇武缀做衫的工艺特征  

Technological features of patchwork type tunic blouse in Chongwu

作　　者：吴欣[1] 崔荣荣[1] 罗静[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2012年第10期107-112,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家社科基金规划项目(12BMZ049);教育部社会科学基金规划项目(09YJA760014)

摘　　要：崇武服装在惠安东部沿海地区最具特色与代表性,其结构与缝制工艺蕴涵着当地风土人情,是民俗文化的重要内容,为此,通过田野调查的形式,以特色鲜明,代表性强的缀做衫为例对崇武服装进行研究。研究认为崇武缀做衫采用边裁边缝的传统作业方式,包括面料采购、裁剪、缝制、整烫等基本步骤。结合服装结构特征和缝制工艺特色,分析得出崇武缀做衫具有"备物致用"的造物观念及"宜简不宜繁,宜自然不宜雕斫"的审美特征。Chongwu is a famous town in Fujian province,and Chongwu patchwork type tunic blouse is most distinctive and representative in the east coastal areas of Hui′an county,whose structure and sewing technology contain local conditions and customs,constituting important composition of local folk culture.This article makes a research on Chongwu tunic blouse through field investigation in terms of the traditional processing process of ″swing while cutting″,including purchase of fabric,cutting,sewing,finishing and ironing.From the researchers′ viewpoint,Chongwu patchwork type tunic blouse has distinctive features,possessing the concept of ″let all things serve their proper purpose″ and favoring the aesthetics of ″ simplicity rather than complexity,natural state rather than artificial″.

关 键 词：缀做衫 结构 缝制工艺 崇武 服装文化 

分 类 号：TS941.63[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]