薄型全毛单面华达呢生产工艺的探讨  

Discussion on production process of woollen one-side thin gabardine

作　　者：蔡永东[1] 

机构地区：[1]南通纺织职业技术学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2012年第10期17-19,共3页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：全毛单面华达呢是一类传统的高档毛纺织产品。为开发其薄型产品,采用66支澳毛条,利用引进设备进行紧密纺纺纱工艺纺出14.8×2 tex精梳毛纱,成纱质量明显提高,使产品顺利投产。文章系统探讨了全毛单面薄型华达呢的纺纱、织造及后整理等工序的生产工艺,得出:生产高档薄型全毛华达呢制品时,纺纱宜采用精纺紧密纺设备;织造以"大张力、中速度、大开口、迟开口、低后梁"为原则,采用反织法进行生产;后整理应控制好洗呢、双煮、蒸呢等关键工序的工艺条件,才能保证产品风格特点。The woollen one-side gabardine is a kind of traditional high-grade wool textile products. For the development of the thin products, using 66 Ne Australian wool, the use of imported equipment for compact spinning process spinning 14.8 tex × 2 combed wool yarn, the yarn quality was obviously improved, so that product was successful put into production. This paper was made a systematic study of the thin woollen one-side gabardine production process on spinning, weaving and finishing processes. Drawled the following conclusions： high-grade thin wool gabardine products production, spinning should adopt the worsted spinning equipment spinning; weaving should be ＂ large tension, velocity, large opening, later opening, low beam＂ for the principle, adopting the method of production; products finishing should control key process conditions of washing , double-boiling, debating , thus ensured the product style.

关 键 词：华达呢 紧密纺 反织法 染整工艺 

分 类 号：TS106.813[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]