贵州省织金县歪梳苗蜡染的文化探究  

Investigation into culture of batik dyeing of Waishu Miao nationality in Zhijin,Guizhou

作　　者：吴晓丽[1,2] 刘一萍[1,3] 

机构地区：[1]西南大学纺织服装学院,重庆400715 [2]昆明难看工艺礼品厂,云南昆明650100 [3]西南大学食品科学学院,重庆400715

出　　处：《纺织学报》2012年第12期64-69,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目资助(12YJC760053);国家社会科学基金西部项目(12XMZ076)

摘　　要：贵州省织金县歪梳苗蜡染是兼具实用与文化双重功能的服饰品。基于对当地多个代表性村寨的实地调研,从歪梳苗男子、女子服饰特征入手,阐述蜡染在歪梳苗民族文化中的地位,系统分析其主题纹饰、构图布局、色彩方面的艺术特征,总结归纳了蜡染图案浪花纹、方形、鸟纹、龙头鱼、石榴花、圈圈花凝聚的歪梳苗丰富的历史、文化习俗、宗教信仰等方面的意涵。服饰上精美的蜡染纹样体现着其艺术审美价值和歪梳苗妇女的艺术创作才能,也记录着歪梳苗的祖先、承载着他们的崇拜与信仰。Batik dyed apparels of Waishu Miao possess of both practical and cultural functions.Based on the field investigations in local typical villages,and starting from the costume features of men and women of Waishu Miao,this article discusses the position of batik dyeing in the culture of Waishu Miao nationality,with emphasis on the artistic features of theme patterns,design lay-out,and color.It summarizes the rich connotations of history,folk culture,religious belief,etc.of Waishu Miao,that are condensed in batik dyeing patterns and designs—waves,square,birds,fishes,pomegranate blossom,and circles.The fine batik dyed patterns on apparels display the artistically aesthetic values and the talent of artistic creation of Waishu Miao women,and memorize Waishu Miao′s ancestors,carrying their worships and belief.

关 键 词：歪梳苗 蜡染 艺术特征 文化意涵 

分 类 号：TS941.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]