二次成圈针织人造毛皮的加工工艺  

Processing technology of the second-time looping based knitted artificial fur

作　　者：黄雪红[1] 

机构地区：[1]南通纺织职业技术学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《针织工业》2012年第12期32-35,7+73,共4页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：介绍了二次成圈在毛条喂入式人造毛皮中的应用以及二次成圈针织人造毛皮的加工工艺。选用长度20.0～25.0mm的羊毛为人造毛皮的面纤维,选择330 dtex的涤纶低弹丝为地丝;羊毛散纤维进行前处理以保证染色质量;染料选用安诺菲克斯毛用活性染料,染色温度100℃,保温时间30 min,为避免色花和羊毛纤维受损,需注意纤维装笼密度不能太高、化料应充分、控制升温速度在1℃/min以下等影响因素;然后对染色羊毛进行烘干、和毛、制条,并在SK-18J二次成圈型长毛绒针织机上进行织造;为减少掉毛现象,对地布进行上浆,浆料为聚氨酯乳液:水=1:1,并在温度120℃、速度15 m/min下定形。数据显示,上述条件下制成的二次成圈人造毛皮产品性能良好。This paper introduces the application of the second-time looping in production of sliver-fed artificial fur and the processing technology of the second-time looping based knitted artificial fur.The wool fiber with a length of 20.0 ~25.0 mm is selected as the face fiber of the artificial fur and the low elastic polyester filament yarn of 330 dtex as the ground.The pretreatment is applied to wool fibers in order to guarantee the dyeing quality.The wool used reactive dye-ANOFIX is selected,dyeing temperature is 100 ℃ with a keeping time of 30 minutes.In order to avoid colored spots and damages to wool fibers,the packing density of fibers can not be too big,the chemicals should be applied enough and the temperature increasing speed should be lower than 1 ℃/min.The drying,wool blending and slivering are then applied.The second-time looping type high pile knitting machie-SK-18J is selected for knitting.In order to reduce fiber lose,the ground fabric is sized with polyurethane emulsion,whose proportion to water is 1 ∶1.The setting is made under the temperature of 120 ℃ and speed of 15 m/min.The tested results show that the developed artificial fur bears good properties.

关 键 词：人造毛皮 二次成圈 羊毛 地丝 毛条喂入 和毛 

分 类 号：TS190.65[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]