羊绒纺织品丝网印花工艺优化  

Optimization of cashmere textile screen printing process

作　　者：王利平[1] 吴黎丽[1] 蔺建芬 吴薇[1] 

机构地区：[1]内蒙古工业大学轻工与纺织学院,内蒙古呼和浩特010051 [2]内蒙古东昊羊绒制品有限公司,内蒙古鄂尔多斯017000

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2013年第1期35-42,共8页Wool Textile Journal

基　　金：内蒙古自治区高等学校科学研究项目(项目编号:NJZY11084)

摘　　要：针对羊绒织物丝网印花中存在色差、花纹色泽深浅不均、色点、花型位置不准、色牢度差、颜色饱满度不好、手感硬等问题,结合鄂尔多斯羊绒集团的生产实际,分别对匀染剂、保护剂、释酸剂等助剂的筛选和用量进行分析研究,探讨它们对织物强力、色差、K/S值、染色牢度的影响,确定羊绒织物丝网印花的优化工艺。研究结果表明:VS酸在得色量高、染色牢度等方面均优于其他释酸剂,适宜羊绒织物印花。保护剂HTW提高了织物顶破强力,是山羊绒制品印花的最佳保护剂。印制浅色花纹VS酸用量选用4%为宜,印制深色花纹VS酸用量选用6%为宜。The chromatic aberration,different color pattern,uncertain location of color point and figure,poor color fastness,bad color saturation and hand touch feeling exist in the process of cashmere fabric screen printing.To solve these problems the choices and dosages of levelling agent,protective solute and acid-releasing agent were analyzed with the actual production of Ordos in this paper.And their influences to fabric strength,chromatic aberration,K/S value and dye fastness were also investigated to decide the optimal process.The results were： VS acid was better than any other acid-releasing agent in dye yield and dye fastness and suitable for cashmere fabric printing.The optimum dosages of VS acid were 4% when printing the light figure and 6% of dark figure.

关 键 词：羊绒纺织品 丝网印花工艺 VS酸 保护剂 

分 类 号：TS194.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]