黏锦氨花边织物的染整工艺  

Dyeing and Finishing Processes of Nylon-spandex-viscose Lace Fabric

作　　者：余丽萍 

机构地区：[1]厦门飞煌纺织有限公司,福建厦门361006

出　　处：《针织工业》2013年第1期44-46,共3页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：介绍了黏锦氨多组分花边织物的染整加工过程,包括前处理、预定形、染色、固色、柔软处理、定形等步骤。指出前处理时pH值一般控制在10～11为宜,前处理后要水洗干净;染色前需进行预定形,使用针铗式定形机,温度180～185℃,速度20～25 m/min;采用活性染料、弱酸性(或中性)两浴两步法对黏锦氨花边织物进行染色,其中,可选择汽巴克隆的FN型活性染料染黏胶纤维,选择汽巴的依利尼尔弱酸性染料用于锦纶中浅色的染色,选择兰纳洒脱中性染料用于锦纶中深色的染色;中深色黏锦氨花边织物在染色后需进行固色处理,可选用固色剂NBS;然后进行柔软、脱水和定形处理。最后对织物色牢度进行测定,结果显示,织物的水洗色牢度、皂洗色牢度以及干、湿摩擦色牢度均可达到3～4级或以上。Introduced dyeing and finishing processes of nylon-spandex-viscose lace fabric, including pretreatment, presetting, dyeing, fixation, soft finishing and formalization. The results show that pH value should be 10 to 11 in pretreatment process, lace fabric must be washed clearly after pretreatment process; Presetting should be done before dyeing, needle clapped type setting machine can be used, temperature maintain 180-185 ~C, speed maintain 20-25 m/min; Nylon-spandex-viscose lace fabric can be dyed by reactive dyes in weak acidic or neutral bath using two bath two steps method; the viscose part of lace fabric can be dyed by Ciba Cloning FN-reactive dye, the nylon part of lace fabric can be dyed in light color with Ciba Neil weak acidic dye and in deep color with Lanaset neutral dye; Nylon-spandex-viscose lace fabric with deep color should be fixation after dyeing, dye- fixing agent NBS can be used; then conduct soft finishing, dehydration and formalization. Color fastness were tested, it is found that after dyeing and finishing using processes mentioned above, nylon-spandex-viscose lace fabric has good color fastness to washing, soaping and both to dry and wet rubbing, the whole which are or above 3-4 lever.

关 键 词：锦纶 黏胶 氨纶 电脑多梳拉舍尔花边织物 染色 活性染料 弱酸性染料 中性染料 

分 类 号：TS190.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]