人体腰部形态对斜裙样板结构的影响研究  

The Influence of Human Body’s Waist Form on the Pattern Structure of Circular Skirt

作　　者：张姝[1] 陆鑫[2] 马莲莹[2] 

机构地区：[1]南通纺织职业技术学院,江苏南通226007 [2]辽东学院,辽宁丹东118003

出　　处：《扬州职业大学学报》2012年第4期8-11,共4页Journal of Yangzhou Polytechnic College

基　　金：辽宁省自然科学基金项目(201102075)

摘　　要：选用160/84A的人体模台,将腰围分别补正为64cm、68cm、72cm,通过样板叠加分析方法,考察样板中各工艺点的变量规律;并辅助着装观察方法,研究人体的腰部形态对斜裙造型的影响。研究表明:当臀围不变,腰围呈等差数列增加,斜裙样板结构中的腰口曲线横深比增大,腰口曲线弧度与底摆曲线弧度越平滑,下摆围度越小,这些变量都呈等差数列;而斜裙着装后底摆波浪个数减少,且起伏变小,平均起浪点越低。This paper aims to explore the influence of human body＇ s waist form on the pattern structure of oblique skirt. By choosing the phantom of 160/84A, the waistlines are respectively corrected to 64cm, 68cm and 72cm. Through the analytic method of sample stacking, the variable law at different waist forms is studied. Together with the observation method of oblique skirt outfit modeling, the affect of human＇ s waist form on oblique skirt＇s shape is analysed. Research shows that： when the hip circumference length is changeless, the waist circumference length takes on arithmetic sequence increase ; oblique skirt model structure of waist mouth curve cross depth ratio increases and the smoother the waist entry curve radian and bottom pendulum curve radian, the smaller the skirt hem circumference degrees. The waist circumference is bigger, the waist thick-width rate is smaller. The number of skirt flare is less, the skirt wave is smaller and average wave point is lower.

关 键 词：腰部形态 斜裙 样板结构 变量 造型 

分 类 号：TS941.717[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]