梭织衣身上的针织袖袖山吃势量研究  

Study on Knitting Sleeve Cap Ease for theWoven Apparel

作　　者：林彬[1] 

机构地区：[1]嘉兴学院设计学院,浙江嘉兴314001

出　　处：《针织工业》2013年第2期63-66,共4页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：选择棉氨平纹、全棉平纹、全棉1+1罗纹、全棉2+2罗纹、涤氨平纹5种常见针织面料,来研究针织衣袖与梭织袖窿相匹配时,针织面料性能与袖山吃势量的相互关系。测试分析了这5种针织面料的基本性能、悬垂性能和弹性伸长率;同时参照梭织衣袖的吃势规律,设定了针织袖山吃势区间范围-2～2cm;通过装袖工艺实验,得出各种面料袖形的最佳吃势量;在此基础上,运用统计软件计算出吃势量与针织面料各项性能的数学模型。结果表明:吃势量(Y)与针织面料纵向弹性伸长率(X51)之间的关系为Y=-0.428.X51+5.982。This article chooses five common knitting fabrics of cotton-PU plain fabric, cotton plain fabric, cot- ton 1＋1 rib, cotton 2＋2 rib, polyester-PU plain fabric, to study the relationship of knitting fabrics performance and sleeve cap ease. It also analyses the basic performance, suspension performance and elastic elongation of these knit- ting fabrics experimentally. In addition, referring to sleeve cap ease of woven sleeve, it sets the knitting sleeve cap ease quantity range. Then find most perfect sleeve through the technology experiments. Based on this, using statistical software to calculate the mathematical model of sleeve shrinkage and knitting fabric pertbrmance. The re- sults show that Y=-0.428.X51＋5.982, Y refers to the sleeve cap ease, and X51 is the knitting fabrics longitudinal e- lastic elongation.

关 键 词：针织面料 弹性伸长率 袖山吃势 数学模型 

分 类 号：TS941.63[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]