基于基本纸样的女装后片浮余量结构转化分析  

Analysis of structure conversion of dress back′s surplus value based on basic pattern

作　　者：庄立新[1] 

机构地区：[1]常州纺织服装职业技术学院,江苏常州213164

出　　处：《纺织学报》2013年第3期102-108,共7页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：从女装基本纸样的后片浮余量形成入手,分析了利用纸样设计、服装工艺和面料性能3个途径处理后片浮余量的多种方法。提出了女装后片浮余量结构处理应采用以"省道"、"分割线"和"褶皱"等显性而直接的结构处理为基础,结合面料塑形、工艺处理等隐性而间接的手段,通过综合考量,进行多途径、多方式的"余量位移"、"余量消解"和"余量转化"的观点,为提升女装结构设计的科学性和合理性,进一步揭示服装结构设计规律提供了理论依据和实践指导。Starting from the back surplus value forming of the dress basic pattern, many kinds of methods of handling the back surplus value by using pattern design, clothing craftsmanship and fabric performance are analyzed. Structure handling of the dress back surplus value is supposed to use the explicit and direct methods of dart, split line and wrinkle structure handling as the foundation, and on the other hand, the viewpoint of the multi-ways＇ surplus value displacement, surplus value remove and surplus value conversion methods is considered in combination with the indirect and implicit methods of fabric remodel and technologic handling. This study provides a theoretical basis and practical guideline for improving the science and rationality of the women＇s wear structural design and revealing further the clothing structural design rule.

关 键 词：直接转化 间接转化 余量位移 余量消解 解构性结构 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]