民国时期的绉类丝织物设计  

Design of Crepe Silk Fabrics during the Period of the Republic of China

作　　者：徐铮[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装.艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]中国丝绸博物馆,杭州310002

出　　处：《丝绸》2013年第3期53-57,共5页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：轻薄的绉类丝织物是民国时期女装的主要面料。通过对民国时期大量绉类丝织物实物的分析,以及与相关文献史料的比对研究,梳理了民国时期绉类丝织物的发展,归纳了民国时期主要的起绉设计方法,并探讨了民国时期绉织物大为流行和设计呈现多样性的主要原因。研究表明民国时期起绉的主要设计方法包括利用经纬线加捻和利用绉组织这两个大类,而设计方法更加丰富多样、厂丝和人造丝等新型原料的引用,以及机械设备和精练技术更为先进则是推动民国时期起绉繁荣的主要原因。Light crepe silk fabric was a major fabric of women＇ s dress during the period of the Republic of China. This paper organizes the development of crepe silk fabrics during the period of the Republic of China, summarizes main creping design methods during the period of the Republic of China and discusses main reasons for the popularity of crepe silk fabrics and design diversity during the period of the Republic of China through analysis on a lot of real crepe silk fabrics during the period of the Republic of China and comparative study on related literature and historical data. The research shows that major design methods of creping during the period of the Republic of China include twisting by using warp and weft and crepe weave. More diversified design methods, introduction of new raw materials such as filature silk and rayon and more advanced mechanical equipment and scouring technique are main reasons promoting the prosperity of creping during the period of the Republic of China.

关 键 词：民国 绉 组织设计 丝织物 

分 类 号：K876.9[历史地理—考古学及博物馆学] TS145.1[历史地理—历史学]