军警用毛衣的弹性和手感优化技术研究  

Optimization technology for elasticity and feel of military wool sweaters

作　　者：施楣梧[1] 胡京平[2] 张燕[1] 李彬 胡晓明 

机构地区：[1]总后勤部军需装备研究所,北京100082 [2]中国纺织信息中心,北京100742 [3]保定格林纺织化工有限公司,河北保定071000 [4]桐庐富春江织造集团有限公司,浙江杭州315000

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2013年第5期7-10,共4页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：针对军警全毛毛衣手感偏硬、容易产生蠕变松懈、尺寸不够稳定的问题,提出了2类优化技术。一是优选了柔软剂及整理工艺,在捻度偏大的前提下提高了手感的柔软滑爽效果;二是在毛纱中并入PTT/PET并列复合弹性长丝,利用弹性丝较高的弹性回复率使毛衣具有良好的回弹性,提高了毛衣的贴身性和保暖性,降低了毛衣的蠕变松懈现象;利用PTT/PET并列复合弹性长丝拉伸刚度和弯曲刚度较低且接近羊毛纤维的特点,加入弹性丝后仍然保持毛衣的全毛手感。由于PTT/PET并列复合弹性长丝的原料成本低于羊毛,故弹性丝的应用在优化毛衣性能的同时,提高了性价比。The paper offered two kinds of optimization technique to solving the feel hard, ereep and relaxation, size unstable problems for the military wool sweaters. One method is optimizing softener and improving finishing process, in order to enhancing the feel of fabric with high twist. The other method is make the PTT/PET compound elastic filament merge into wool yarn, using high elastie recovery ratio fiber to make sweaters with good resilience, improving the personal and heat retention property, reduce the creep slack. The PTT/PET compound elastic filament whose tensile strength and bending strength is closer to wool fiber, it is that can keep the feel of sweaters with adding elastic yarn. The cost of PTT/PET compound elastic filament is lower than the wool, so using elastic yarn can not only optimize the composite yams, but also improve the cost performance of wool sweaters.

关 键 词：毛衣 手感 弹性回复率 柔软剂 

分 类 号：TS941.733[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]