毛精纺大提花织物的开发与生产  

Development and production of jacquard worsted wool fabric

作　　者：周胜毅[1] 陈敏[1] 陆爱华[1] 桂明胜[1] 

机构地区：[1]江苏阳光集团有限公司,江苏江阴214426

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2013年第5期18-20,共3页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：通过技术改造,将大提花设备运用于毛精纺西服面料的生产。一方面摒弃传统的对大提花机的改造方法,采用抽经方法,使抽取经纱后的经密与所生产的品种相适应。该方法操作简便,不仅降低了改造成本,而且缩短了生产周期。另一方面对大提花机电子意匠图制作、上机张力、综平时间、开口高度、进剑时间、出剑时间等工艺参数进行了调节,使之适应毛精纺织物的生产。后整理采用缩绒工艺,既改善了产品手感风格,又增强了花型的立体感。Jacquard weaving concept was applied to develop worsted wool products. The jacquard rapier looms were used to produce worsted wool fabrics for suits through technical reformation. On one hand. It can abandon the traditional modification on the jacquard looms, they were modified by drawing out the .warp yarn. This makes the warp density be suitable for the products. It is easy to be carried out, not only cuts the cost but also shortens the cycle time. On the other hand, the jacquard electronic pattern grid making and the key weaving process parameters such as weaving tension, shed timing, shed height, rapier head entry timing and rapier head, which can adapt to weave worsted wool fabrics. The fabrics were milled during finishing process. This not only helps improve the hand feeling, but also makes the pattern more stereoscopic.

关 键 词：大提花 毛精纺 抽经 意匠图 工艺参数 

分 类 号：TS136[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]