女士呢精粗纺双层织物的工艺设计  

Design of worsted/woollen double side crepe

作　　者：张和平 施云开 

机构地区：[1]北京清河三羊毛纺织集团,北京100085

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2013年第5期21-23,共3页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：介绍了女士呢精粗纺双层织物的产品特点,织物组织的设计要领,原料选用,纱线密度、捻度、捻向,织物经纬密度、紧度的确定。着重阐述了双层组织的设计方法,利用精纺纱和粗纺纱,配合双层组织,使织物产生一面是精纺绉组织女士呢效果,一面是粗纺斜纹织物效果。丰富产品结构,拓宽设计思路。特别是在毛纺织产品花型比较单一的情况下,灵活运用双层组织,突破精、粗纺界限,大胆的将粗纺纱线和精纺纱线交织使用,可以使花型丰富,风格独特,扩大了女装面料设计的空间。This article introduces the characteristic of worsted/woollen double side crepe, the designing point, material choosing, yarn density, twist, twist sense, and the decision of the fabric density and tightness. It especially states the designing method of double face construction. Using both worsted and woollen yarn, double side weaving, It makes the fabric with worsted effect on one side and woollen effect on the other side, which enrich the product construction, and open up the designing idea. Under the situation of non-abundant style for woven products, it utilizes flexibility double-side construction, breaking the worsted/woollen limit, daringly interweaves the worsted and woollen yarn, makes the style more abundant and unique, expands the designing space of woman fabric.

关 键 词：精纺织物 粗纺织物 双层组织 纱线设计 染整工艺 

分 类 号：TS106.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]