低扭矩环锭纺纱原理及其单纱的结构和性能  

Spinning principle,structure and properties of low torque ring spun yarns

作　　者：陶肖明[1] 郭滢[1] 冯杰[1] 徐宾刚[1] 华涛[1] 

机构地区：[1]香港理工大学纺织与制衣学系,香港999077

出　　处：《纺织学报》2013年第6期120-125,141,共7页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：香港纺织制衣研发中心资助项目(RD/PR/011/06)

摘　　要：回顾低扭矩环锭纺纱技术的发展,通过讨论其纺纱三角区的特点,利用高速摄影机对纺纱区捻度和张力分布的观察分析,系统地介绍了低扭矩纱的成纱原理。此外,结合示踪纤维技术,利用纱线结构连续测量分析系统对低扭矩环锭单纱和传统环锭单纱的内部结构进行分析,揭示出低扭矩纱独特的结构特点,如非同轴异形螺旋线结构,纤维片段局部反转现象等。这些特点解释了低扭矩纱及其织物具有优良物理性能的原因。通过多个生产厂家提供的测试数据,对比分析了几代低扭矩环锭纱与传统纱及其织物的物理性能。结果表明,低扭矩环锭纱具有低捻高强、低残余扭矩和毛羽少等特点,其针织物经多次水洗后歪斜变形小,手感好,机织物具有较好的撕裂强力、断裂强力和耐摩擦性。认为新一代低扭矩环锭纺纺技术极大地改善了高支纱的物理性能。This paper reviews the spinning principle of low torque ring spinning technology by studying the modified spinning triangle and yarn twist and tension in the modified spinning zone. Furthermore, the 3D fiber configuration in low torque ring yarns and normal ring yarns was analyzed using the tracer fiber technique and the results revealed the unique structural characteristics of low torque ring yarn, such as deformed non-concentric helix and local reversion phenomena. These features experimentally offer useful explanations for the improved properties of low twist ring yarns and resultant fabrics. A systematical comparison was then made between low torque ring spun yarns and conventional yarns and their resultant fabrics, which showed that low torque ring yarns have high yarn strength at low twists, low residual torque and less hairiness. The resultant knitted fabrics produced by low torque ring yarns have soft handle and low skew deformation after several washing cycles, while the resultant woven fabrics possess better tearing strength, tensile strength and abrasion resistance. This new generation low torque ring spinning technology greatly improves the physical property of high count yarns.

关 键 词：传统环锭纺 低扭矩环锭纱 假捻 纺纱三角区 纱线结构 

分 类 号：TS104.1[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]