基于圆装袖结构的合体型插肩袖制图方法的研究  

Research on Pattern-making for Close Fitting Raglan Sleeve Based on Set-in Sleeve

作　　者：刘美华[1] 赵欲晓[1] 

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院服装艺术与工程学院,北京100029

出　　处：《北京服装学院学报（自然科学版）》2013年第1期7-15,共9页Journal of Beijing Institute of Fashion Technology：Natural Science Edition

摘　　要：探讨了如何将合体女西服的圆装袖转化为插肩袖.基于从袖子的构成要素来看圆装袖与插肩袖有相同之处的特点,本研究从合体型圆装袖结构出发,分割袖片与衣身组合得到插肩袖结构,并研究了圆装袖与插肩袖的内在联系;通过制作和试穿样衣,将普遍使用的插肩袖制图方法与圆装袖演变而来的插肩袖制图方法进行比较,总结归纳出一种更加实用的插肩袖制图方法.This study is aimed to find a way to transfer the perfect fit set-in sleeves to raglan sleeves of women’s business suits to make the armpit fit better to the body shape.Based on the similarity in the basic element of set-in sleeves and raglan sleeves,the structure of set-in sleeves,breaking up of the sleeves and recombining with bodice were studied to obtain the relationship between set-in sleeves and raglan sleeves.Moreover,this study also develops a more practical drafting method of raglan sleeves by comparing the traditional draft method of raglan sleeves and set-in sleeves,and by making sample dresses to fit in.

关 键 词：样板制作 合体袖 插肩袖 装袖 

分 类 号：TS941[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]