缝制条件下织物的弯曲和悬垂性能  

Analysis of bending and drape properties of seamed fabrics

作　　者：杨允出[1,2] 刘旖婧[2] 丁笑君[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学浙江省服装工程研究中心,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学服装学院,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2013年第7期95-99,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：浙江省自然科学基金项目(LQ12E05015;Y1110504);浙江省服装工程技术研究中心开放基金项目(2012002)

摘　　要：首先调查分析不同类型缝份部位整体弯曲性能的变化,然后着重研究在不同接缝位置、不同缝型和不同缝份宽度条件下有缝织物的悬垂性能变化及其原因。结果显示:缝份部位的抗弯长度和抗弯刚度与原织物相比有明显增加;带有径向接缝或圆周边缘缝份的有缝试样,其悬垂系数、平均半径和硬挺度系数等指标均大于无缝试样;径向接缝试样,缝份宽度、接缝方向、缝份部位的抗弯长度和抗弯刚度等因素会对织物悬垂系数产生影响。该研究结果将对缝制后面料及服装造型评价及模拟具有一定的实践指导意义。This paper investigated the change of fabric bending performance of different seams,with focuses on the change of drape with different seam type,widths and related causes.The results showed that the bending length and bending rigidity at the seam obviously increased compared with the original fabric;some main drape parameters of the samples with radial or circular edge seams were greater than those of un-sewn samples,such as drape coefficient,average radius,stiffness index and so on;and as to sample with radial seams,the drape coefficient was influenced by the seam width,seam position,seam′s bending length and rigidity.The study has offered some guidance for the evaluation of seamed fabrics as well as garment shape and simulation.

关 键 词：缝份 织物 弯曲性能 悬垂性能 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]