棉锦交织提花色织府绸的生产技术  

The production technology of cotton / nylon interwoven jacquard yarn-dyed poplin

作　　者：许金玉[1] 

机构地区：[1]南通纺织职业技术学院,江苏南通226007

出　　处：《上海纺织科技》2013年第7期37-38,44,共3页Shanghai Textile Science & Technology

摘　　要：介绍了在GA747-180型普通剑杆织机上开发细特高密色织棉锦交织提花府绸面料的生产技术,首先进行合理的织物规格与上机工艺参数设计,其次设计好前织主要生产工艺采取的必要的技术措施,如漂染宜采用高温高压筒染工艺,络筒采用电子清纱,整浆采用分色分层整浆排花工艺。通过对浆料配方和浆纱工艺参数进行优化等,解决了沾色毛羽及织造过程开口不清的问题。剑杆织造采用反织法,并采用"大张力、中速度、大开口、迟开口、低后梁"的工艺路线,使织机效率达到90%,下机合格率达到80%。The development of high-count and high-density cotton/nylon interwoven jacquard yarn-dyed poplin fabric on the GA747 - 180 normal rapier loom, which adopted corresponding measures is introduced. Firstly, reasonable fabric specifications and technical parameters were designed. Secondly, necessary technical measures were taken before-weaving production, such as dycing that should adopt the high temperature and high pressure cylinder dyeing process, that winding should adopt electronic yam clearing, warping and sizing by color and stratified plasma discharge process. In order to solve the problem which referred to unclear opening for color hairiness and weaving process, the sizing process parameters and sizing formulation are optimized. Rapier weaving adopted back-woven, and used process with ＂high tension, medium speed, big opening, delayed opening, low back＂, the efficiency of loom reached 90%, the cplalified rate of under the machine reached 80%.

关 键 词：色织物 府绸 棉 锦纶 交织织物 剑杆织机 织造工艺 

分 类 号：TS105.43[轻工技术与工程—纺织工程]