“和洋”之间：清末民初留日学人的服饰与饮食  

Between “Japanese Style” and “Western Style”: The Dressing and Diet of Chinese Scholars in Late Qing Dynasty and Early Republic of China

作　　者：蒋磊[1] 

机构地区：[1]海南大学人文传播学院讲师,海南海口570228

出　　处：《中华文化论坛》2013年第8期27-33,190,共7页Journal of Chinese Culture

摘　　要：清末民初的留日学人不仅以日本作为西学思想的"中介",而且深受明治到大正时代日式生活的影响。在服饰穿戴方面,留日学人乐于换上西式制服和日式和服的行为,展示了这群知识人渴望着文化变革、时代进步的精神风貌。同时,服饰作为一种身份的象征,成为各派主张、诸家理念的斗争场。在日常饮食方面,所谓"日式料理"其实多为"和洋折中"的产物,带给留日学人以"舌尖上的现代性"的体验。从日常生活与社会变革的关系来看,留日学人对服饰与饮食的体验,绝不仅仅流于"外形"的层面。他们对穿着打扮的创新和味觉体验的"冒险",在"和风"与"洋风"之间,在"新"与"旧"的冲突中,形成了对于现代生活形态的呼唤,潜藏着对于社会变局、文化革新的政治要求。During the period of late Qing Dynasty and early of Republic of China, the Chinese scholars studying in Japan only drew supports from Japan as the'intermediary'of Western ideology, but also were affected by the Japanese life from Meji to Taisho. In the dressing aspect, the Chinese scholars were willing to wear Western uniform and Japanese-style kimono, revealing the eager of the group of intellectuals to the cultural change and progress. Meanwhile, as a status symbol, the dressing became the struggle field of the concepts and opinions from different factions. In the daily diet, the so-called'Japanese Cuisine'was actually a product of compromise of Japanese and Western cooking, which brought the Chinese scholars the experiences of'tongue modernity'. From the perspective of the relationship between daily life and social change, the dressing and food experience of Chinese scholars did not merely stay on the'facial'level. The'adventure'of their dressing innovation and tasting experience constituted the call for a modern lifestyle and embodied the political requirement of social change and cultural innovation in the conflicts between'new'and'old'and'Japane se style'and 'Western style'.

关 键 词：留日 文化身份 服饰 饮食 现代性 

分 类 号：K251[历史地理—历史学] TS941.1[历史地理—中国史] TS971[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]