基于数码提花的仿磨砂水洗半成型牛仔面料的设计  

Design of sand washed like semi-formed denim fabric based on digital jacquard

作　　者：王雪琴[1,2] 贺珍谊[1] 陈茜凡[1] 黄家雄[1] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院,浙江杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室,浙江杭州310018

出　　处：《纺织学报》2013年第8期56-60,共5页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：浙江省钱江人才计划特殊急需类项目(1107361E);浙江理工大学科研启动基金资助项目(ZSTU1101804Y);先进纺织材料与制备技术教育部重点实验室优秀青年人才培养基金重点项目(2011QN03)

摘　　要：针对牛仔服饰耗能、耗水、耗工问题,提出对牛仔面料的设计方式和工艺进行重新构思的规避方法。基于数码提花的仿磨砂水洗半成型牛仔面料的设计理念,通过计算机辅助设计对牛仔面料效果进行定位化仿色图像处理,再对牛仔面料典型结构进行牛仔面料的影光组织设计,最终通过提花织造将具有水洗磨砂的牛仔半成型面料织造成形。同时给出面料和服装款式结合于一体的半成型综合设计模式和相关设计实验示例。这种方法最终可实现免擦洗等后处理的生态牛仔面料设计和生产,提高牛仔面料的服装生产效率和附加值。In view of the problems such as large consumption of water,energy,and labor during denim garment production,this study proposed a new fabric design approach for avoiding the problems.Based on the design concept sand washed like semi-formed denim fabric by digital jacquard,a type of digitalized and fixed color imitation image processing for denim fabric is conducted via computer-aided design.Then variable shade structures design based on some typical denim weave is performed.And finally,the sand washed semi-formed denim fabric is directly woven with a jacquard.The semi-formed comprehensive design mode which integrates denim fabric with clothing style is presented,along with examples demonstrating related designs.This eco-friendly design and production method without washing and grinding can enhance the productivity of denim fabrics and garments and as added value well.

关 键 词：牛仔面料 水洗磨砂 数码提花 牛仔服饰 半成型 

分 类 号：TS941.26[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程] TS105.1