侗族斜织机调查及研究  

Survey and Research on Tilted Looms of the Dong Minority

作　　者：赵翰生[1] 李劲松[1] 秦双夏[2] 

机构地区：[1]中国科学院自然科学史研究所,北京100190 [2]广西民族大学网络与信息化管理中心,南宁530006

出　　处：《中国科技史杂志》2013年第2期183-198,F0003,共17页The Chinese Journal for the History of Science and Technology

摘　　要：2012年7月,我们在对三江侗族自治县的同乐、高定、唐朝等地考察中发现,现侗族地区仍普遍使用的斜织机,虽然在机械结构方面比较简单,但实用性极强,在不加挂花综时,是一种典型的多综多蹑织机,而在加挂花综后,又变成一种用少蹑控制多综的比较特殊的综蹑机型,亦称为低花本织机。由于它既适宜织造普通平纹和斜纹织物,又可用于织锦,在偏远地区的侗族聚落,至今依旧有一定的实用价值。基于此次考察以及相关文献,对侗族这种织机的结构、织造工艺特点,特别是花综的开口操作,进行了解析;同时,对其技术源流及与壮族竹笼机之相互关系进行了初步探讨,认为这种斜织机最初出现在汉族地区,后流传到少数民族地区,并在此地区得到保留;壮族竹笼机系从其演变而来。In July 2012, we made on-the-spot investigations in Tongle, Gaoding, Dangchao and other locations in Sanjiang Dong Autonomous County of Guangxi Province. We found that tilted looms are in common use in the Dong area. Although their mechanical structure is simple, the looms are highly practical. Without a ＂hanging flower＂ harness attached they are typical multi-heddle ＆ peddle looms, whereas when a ＂hanging flower＂ harness is attached they are a kind of special multi- heddle pedal loom with fewer pedals, called simple Jacquard looms. Because they are suitable for weaving plain cloth and twill cloth as well as brocade, they have a certain practicability in remote Dong settlements. On the basis of the on-the-spot investigations and analysis of related documents, we make a detailed analysis of the structure and features of the weaving techniques of the loom, espe- cially the opening operation of its ＂hanging flower＂ harness. In addition, we discuss the origin of the loom＇s technology and its correlation with Zhuang Minority bamboo machines. The tilted loom is con- sidered to have originated in Han areas and then spread to minority areas and retained there, while Zhuang bamboo machines developed from Dong tilted looms.

关 键 词：广西 侗族 斜织机 竹笼机 织造 

分 类 号：N092[自然科学总论—科学技术哲学] TS1-092[轻工技术与工程—纺织科学与工程]