织物结构参数对真丝绉类织物风格特性影响的研究  

Effects of Fabric Structure Parameters on the Style Characteristics of Real Silk Crepe Fabrics

作　　者：高慧英[1] 

机构地区：[1]嘉兴职业技术学院纺织与艺术设计分院,浙江嘉兴314036

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2013年第5期33-35,共3页Advanced Textile Technology

摘　　要：以8种真丝绉类织物为研究对象,测试了其光泽度、表观厚度、剪切刚性和弯曲刚度等4种风格特性参数,采用逐步多元回归方法建立多元回归方程,分析织物结构参数对织物风格特性的影响。结果显示,真丝绉类织物可以通过对经纬线密度、经纬捻度和捻向的不同设置和排列组合,配合不同的织物组织,构造出多样化的绉类织物;同时,织物的光泽度随着织物的组织系数、捻度的增加而减小,织物的组织系数、紧度的增加使织物的表观厚度增大,织物的弯曲刚度随着织物的平方米质量增加而增大,随着捻度的增加而降低,而织物的剪切刚性随着织物的平方米质量、组织系数、紧度的增加而增大。研究结果为真丝产品的结构参数设计提供参考。In this paper, the style characteristic parameters of eight kinds of real silk crepe fabrics such as glossiness, apparent thickness, shear rigidity and bending rigidity were tested. The step-by-step multiple regression analysis method was used to set up multiple regression equation and analyze the effect of fabric structure parameters on the style characteristics of fabrics. The results showed that various crepe fabrics could be obtained by setting up and combining the density and twist of warp and weft as well as the direction of twist accompanied with different fabric weaves. Meanwhile, the fabric glossiness decreased with the increase in structural coefficient and twist. The increase in structural coefficient and tightness made apparent thickness of fabrics rose. The bending rigidity of fabrics increased with the increase in grams per square meter, but reduced with the increase in the twist. The shear rigidity of fabrics increased with the increase in the weight per square meter, structural coefficient and tightness. These results provide reference for design of structure parameters of real silk products.

关 键 词：真丝绉类织物 织物风格 织物结构参数 多元回归分析 

分 类 号：TS145[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]