明代女服上的对扣研究  

Research on Buckle on Women's Clothes in the Ming

作　　者：陈芳[1] 

机构地区：[1]北京服装学院艺术设计学院,北京100029

出　　处：《南京艺术学院学报（美术与设计）》2013年第5期52-56,212,共5页Journal of Nanjing Arts Institute:Fine Arts & Design

基　　金：北京市教委人文社科重点项目<明清时期的女性服饰时尚研究>(SZ201210012009);北京服装学院学术创新团队(110201110101)的阶段性成果

摘　　要：明代女服上的对扣由别致的动植物造型单体通过子母套结式结构扣合而成,是明代女子服饰上的一种特殊时尚首饰。由于其行用阶层的差异、使用场合的不同、材料产地(中亚、西亚的宝石)的特殊和手工技艺的精湛等因素,承载了社会学和物质文化史的多重含义。但迄今为止,这种对扣尚未引起学人的足够重视。本文主要讨论对扣的造型、材料、出土概况、佩戴者身份以及明代对扣的缘起等相关问题,希望从物质文化史的角度对服饰配件进行学术关注。Buckles on women's clothes in Ming were combined by a monocase in the interesting shapes of animals or plants and a composite set. They were a special decoration of fashion. Because of elements such as used by people from different status, in different situation,produced in special sites(such as gems produced in middle Asia or west Asia), and fine techniques, etc.,they burdened lays of meanings of social study and material cultural history. But these buckles haven't got enough attention in the academic field even today. This thesis mainly discusses about related questions such as the forms, materials, situation at unearth of the buckles, and the identity of people wearing them, as well as the origin of buckles in Ming, and hope to put academic concerns on decorating fittings of clothes from the direction of material cultural history.

关 键 词：明代女服对扣 缘起与流变 物质文化 

分 类 号：J523.5[艺术—艺术设计]