真丝服装压褶设计手法的创新  

Innovation of Pleat Design Method of Silk Clothing

作　　者：许旭兵[1,2] 赵孟超[3] 周红雷[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学纺织服装学院,上海200051 [2]东华大学压褶研究所,上海200051 [3]扬州职业大学纺织服装系,江苏扬州225008

出　　处：《丝绸》2013年第10期55-60,共6页Journal of Silk

摘　　要：分析真丝服装压褶的设计创作手法,指出当前存在的设计创作难点在于如何保持真丝服装褶皱的形态特征以完善设计构思。主张以各类褶皱丰富的肌理效果为创意原点,于设计过程中结合各种结构工艺及装饰手法以达到外观造型上的艺术创新性,并强调压褶技术在过程中的关键性作用。通过压褶服装品牌珍妮维尔(Janetwear)的案例分析,对所提出专业创作问题给出了可操作性强的解决方案,同时解析了各类真丝压褶的造型特征与采用的设计创新手法之间的关系,实现真丝压褶设计的优缺点转换,丰富真丝服装设计的时尚语言。Pleat design of silk clothing is a clothing design method integrating traditional and modern clothing design languages.This paper points out that the current difficulty of design creation consists in how to keep morphological characteristics of pleat of silk clothing so as to improve the design concept through analysis on design creation method of pleat of silk clothing;advocates combining various structural processes and decoration methods in the design process so as to achieve artistic innovation in appearance modeling with rich texture effects of various pleats as the origin of creativity;emphasizes the key role of pleat technology in the process;provides a solution with strong operability for professional creation problems through case analysis on pleat clothing brand Janetwear;meanwhile analyzes the relationship between modeling features of various silk pleats and design innovation techniques adopted;achieves the transformation of advantages and disadvantages of silk pleat design and enriches the fashion language of silk clothing design.

关 键 词：压褶设计 真丝服装 设计创新 服装造型 艺术效果 

分 类 号：TS941.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]