天然植物紫外线防护效果研究  

Study on UV Protection Efficacy of Natural Plants

作　　者：郑洪艳 庞建平 苏宁[2,1] 孟玉娇 刘娟 李静 朱建宇 王超[2] 

机构地区：[1]北京中德联合化妆品研究所有限公司,北京100123 [2]中国检验检疫科学研究院,北京100123

出　　处：《香料香精化妆品》2013年第5期33-35,18,共4页Flavour Fragrance Cosmetics

基　　金：质检公益性行业科研专项(项目编号201010023)

摘　　要：为探索天然植物在防晒化妆品中的应用,选择天然植物提取物根皮素、白藜芦醇和熊果苷,研究其安全性及紫外线防护效果。采用紫外分光光度法测定天然植物提取物的紫外吸收特征,同时将其复配成防晒产品。在采用封闭式斑贴试验评价防晒产品安全性的基础上,应用人体试验测定产品防晒指数(SPF值)和长波紫外线防护指数(PFA值)。结果发现,3种植物提取物表现出不同的紫外吸收能力,中波紫外线(UVB)波段吸收效果优于长波紫外线(UVA)波段,且白藜芦醇的紫外吸收效果相对最好;人体斑贴试验证明3种天然植物提取物均具有良好的皮肤适应性;防晒效果人体试验显示白藜芦醇和根皮素令SPF值有较为明显的提高。研究表明,部分天然植物提取物表现出良好的紫外线防护效果,且与传统的化学和物理防晒剂相比,具有皮肤刺激性小、光化学稳定、安全可靠等优点,具有广阔的市场前景。To provide reference on the research of natural plants application in sunscreen cosmetics, studying the safety and UV protection efficacy of natural plant extract phloretin, resveratrol and arbutin, ultraviolet speetrophotometrie method was used to determine UV absorption characteristics of the natural plant extracts. Three kinds of natural plant extract were made as sunscreen products separately. Human skin patch test under occlusion was used to evaluate the safety of sunscreen products and then the SPF value and PFA value were measured with human test. Three kinds of plant extracts showed different UV ab- sorption ability. Their UVB absorption ability is superior to UVA absorption ability, and UV absorption effect of resveratrol is the best among the three. Human patch test results showed that 3 kinds of natural plant extracts have good skin compatibility; human test of UV protection efficacy showed that SPF value of resveratrol and phloretin increased obviously. Some natural plant extracts exhibited good UV protection efficacy. Compared with traditional chemical and physical sunscreen agents, natu ral plant sunscreen agents had advantages of photochemical stability, safety, reliability and little skin irritation with broad market prospects.

关 键 词：天然植物 根皮素 白藜芦醇 熊果苷 紫外线防护 人体试验 SPF值 PFA值 

分 类 号：TQ658.24[化学工程—精细化工]