服装面料缺陷肌理的内涵与应用设计  

Study on the nature and applied design of defect texture of shell fabrics

作　　者：吕钊[1] 王婷[1] 

机构地区：[1]西安工程大学服装与艺术设计学院,陕西西安710048

出　　处：《纺织学报》2013年第12期101-106,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：陕西省社科基金项目(12C248)

摘　　要：通过对面料缺陷肌理表现形式的比较和梳理,深入剖析了缺陷肌理的本质,阐述了缺陷肌理与传统优势肌理之间的辩证关系,分析了服装面料缺陷肌理流行的内在因素和社会影响,研究了缺陷肌理设计的理念与生理、审美以及情感化设计理念之间的关系,指出缺陷肌理设计是心理回归和情感化、个性化设计的物化形式。针对服装面料缺陷肌理设计的应用及发展的现状,指出面料缺陷肌理设计首先要正确处理人、环境与服装之间的关系,应遵循设计的基本规律,注意整体与局部、主题与形式、宏观与微观之间的关系,避免在服装面料缺陷肌理的应用中出现装饰过剩和过度处理的设计误区。The paper discusses the defect texture of fabrics, encompassing its forms of expression, essence, dialect relationship between the defeat texture and traditional advantage texture, intrinsic factors leading to fashion and social influence, and relationship between design conceptions of defect texture, physiology, esthetic and emotion. It points out that defect texture design is the materialized form of psychological regression, emotional design and personalized design. Taking account of the status quo of the application and development of defect texture design, this paper concludes that for a good design, the relationship among people, environment and clothing should be correctly handled; the basic designing rules should be observed; differences between theme and form, global and local, macro and micro should be noticed; and that excessive decoration and unnecessary handling in designing should be avoided.

关 键 词：服装面料 缺陷肌理 服装设计 流行 

分 类 号：TS941.61[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]