经编浮纹贾卡提花原理  

Principle of warp knitted Broché jacquard

作　　者：程龙 蒋高明[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学经编技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《纺织学报》2014年第1期40-45,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家科技支撑计划项目(2012BAF13B03);江苏省产学研联合创新资金-前瞻性联合研究项目(BY2010119)

摘　　要：针对目前国内外对经编浮纹贾卡提花原理研究甚少,在其实际应用中受瓶颈制约的问题,研究了浮纹型贾卡提花织物的特点和基本形成原理,并在此基础上对选针原理、钩针运动规律进行深入分析和探讨。根据上机实验采集的数据,建立了钩针位移曲线模型,对应空间和时间的二维坐标,更为深入合理地描述了钩针的运动特性。此外,还建立了单纱选择的图示模型,详细阐明单纱选择的具体实现过程及其实现路线。最后,分析了浮纹贾卡提花的压纱结构,探寻出适合浮纹贾卡提花的压纱方式,并比较了浮纹花纹和绣花花纹、剪线花纹在形成原理上的区别,体现出浮纹花纹在生产和性能方面的综合优势。In view of the fact that the theory of warp knitted Broche jacquard is rarely studied at home and abroad and its technologic bottleneck in application field, this paper probes into the characteristics and basic principle of Brothe jacquard fabric. An in-depth analysis of the needle selection principle and movement rule of crochet hook is undertaken. According to the data from experimental trials on the machine, a displaeement curve model of eroehet hook, eorresponding to the space and time axis, is built, and thus its motion characteristics are more deeply and rationally illustrated. In addition, a graphical model of single-yarn selection is also built, which explains the concrete realization process of single-yarn selection and its implementation route. Finally, the structure of BrochO jacquard fall-plate lapping is analyzed and a suitable mode for Brothe jacquard is equally figured out. Moreover, after a comparison in formation theories with the embossed pattern, embroidery pattern and cut work pattern, the Broche pattern demonstrates its own comprehensive advantages in terms of production and performance.

关 键 词：经编 浮纹 贾卡 单纱选择 

分 类 号：TS181.8[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]