考伊琴毛衫的设计应用  

The design and application of Cowichan Sweater

作　　者：沈雷[1] 沈玉迎[2] 杨小艺[2] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学服装设计与品牌研究工作室,江苏无锡214122 [2]江南大学纺织服装学院,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2014年第1期56-59,共4页Knitting Industries

基　　金：中央高校基本科研业务费专项资金资助项目(JUSRP211A50);教育部人文社会科学研究项目(IIYJA760059)

摘　　要：结合考伊琴地域特色、历史文化等介绍考伊琴毛衫的起源、历史文化背景,指出:考伊琴毛衫起源于考伊琴谷,受欧洲移民文化的影响,由编织毯子逐渐演变为编织袜子、手套,进而发展为编织适合当地渔夫穿着的无接缝套头衫,即最早的考伊琴毛衫。归纳了考伊琴毛衫的特点:考伊琴传统毛衫的衣领和衣身是整体的,无缝拼接的;采用没有经过染色的自然色彩,即奶油色、黑色、灰色;图案包括猎杀虎鲸、鲑鱼、鹰、鹿的场景,图腾柱,太阳,羊,雷公鸟等;质地厚重,纱线粗;组织结构相对比较简单;款式有夹克、套衫、斗篷3种。最后分析了考伊琴毛衫在现代针织设计中的应用,包括直接引用法和间接引用法。Combining Cowichan＇s geographical features, histol7 culture and so on, the paper introduces the origin, histol7 and cuhural background of Cowichan Sweater. It points out that Cowichan Sweater was originated in Cowichan Valley and influenced by European settlers＇culture. By weaving blankets evolved into the socks, gloves knitting, to suit local fisherulen to weave the seamless jumper, that is, the earliest Cowichan sweater. Summarize the features of Cowichan sweater： the collar and body of traditional Cowichan Sweater as a whole, seamless splic-ing; Use the natural color without dyeing, it is cream, black, grey; Pattern including the scenario of hunting orcas, salmon, eagle, deer and totem poles, the sun, sheep, tripterygium wilfordii hird, etc.; Quality of a material is thick, yarn is coarse; Organizational structure is relatively simple; It always has 3 kinds of styles, just like Jack-et, sweater, cloak. Finally, it analyzes the application of Cowichan sweater knitting in modern design, including direct reference method and indirect reference method.

关 键 词：考伊琴毛衫 起源 特点 针织设计 应用 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]