间隔珍珠提花绢丝针织面料的开发  

Development of Spaced Pearlescent Jacquard Knitted Fabric

作　　者：张威[1] 刘智 魏赛男 

机构地区：[1]河北科技大学纺织服装学院,河北石家庄050018 [2]河北省纺织服装工程技术研究中心,河北石家庄050018

出　　处：《针织工业》2014年第2期10-11,共2页Knitting Industries

摘　　要：介绍在大圆机上编织绢丝针织物时的用纱要求,采用8.3 tex×2的绢丝为原料,在双面大圆机上开发了一款新型的间隔珍珠提花面料。阐述原料规格、设备参数、组织结构、织针排列、三角排列、编织图等编织工艺,以及精练、染色、固色、定形等染整工艺及注意事项,并给出了面料基本技术参数。该间隔珍珠提花面料,表面具有珍珠一样的小球,悬垂性好,手感光滑、细腻,如加入氨纶裸丝,面料更具有弹性、抗皱性,适合开发春秋T恤衫、休闲装及时装等。Based on the quality demands for spun silk, the paper develops a new kind of spaced pearlescent jacquard knitted fabric on double circular knitting machine by using 8.3 tex＆#215;2 spun silk. It introduces in detail the knitting technology including raw material’s specification, equipment parameters, fabric structure, needle arrange-ment, cam arrangement and knitting diagram, and the dyeing and finishing technology including refining, dyeing, fixation and setting and so on. In addition, the basic technical parameters are given. The results show that this kind of new jacquard fabric has pearlescent appearance, and presents good drapability, smooth hand, and better flexibility and wrinkle resistance properties when uncovered spandex employed, which is suitable for developing T-shirt in spring and summer, leisure wear and fashion fabrics as well.

关 键 词：绢丝 间隔珍珠提花面料 编织工艺 染整工艺 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]