基于面料性能的驳口长度对翻驳领倒伏量的影响  

Influence of break line length on lapel bias based on fabric properties

作　　者：蔡红[1] 

机构地区：[1]无锡工艺职业技术学院服装系,江苏无锡214206

出　　处：《毛纺科技》2014年第3期53-56,共4页Wool Textile Journal

摘　　要：选取影响翻驳领样板制作的重要因素之一的倒伏量作为研究对象,选择8种常用的女装面料,研究面料性能、驳口长度与翻驳领倒伏量的关系。利用KES-FB织物风格仪测试该8种面料的13个力学性能指标,通过主成分分析,使13个原始变量减少到4个变量,分别是拉伸回弹性RT、弯曲刚度B、滞后矩2HB、压缩回弹性RC;其次,用这8种面料分别制作出领座高2.5 cm,翻领宽3.5 cm,驳口长度依次为43、38、33、28、23 cm的5种款式的领子,并测量出每款领子所对应的最佳倒伏量值;最后通过数据分析找出面料性能参数中拉伸回弹性RT、滞后矩2HB、压缩回弹性RC与驳口长度L及倒伏量之间的定量关系。Lapel bias is an important factor, which influenced lapel collar modeling. So this study selects the lapel collar as the research object. We choose eight fabric samples to research the relationship between fabric properties, break line length, and lapel bias. Firstly, the properties （13 indexes） of samples were tested by KES-FB. 13 indexes were reduced to 4 indexes （elastic recovery RT, bending rigidity B, 2HB and compressure -resilience RC） by principal component analysis. Secondly, the lapel collar was made, which collar stand was 2.5 era, lapel collar width was 3.5 cm, and break line length was 43 cm, 38, 33, 28 and 23 cm separately. And the optimal value of lapel bias was measured. Finally, the relationship between RT, B, 2HB, RC, L and lapel bias was analyzed by regression analysis and quantizing the relationship between lapel bias, break line length, and fabric properties.

关 键 词：驳口长度 面料性能 翻驳领 倒伏量 

分 类 号：TS941.1[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]