经编无缝女束身上衣的塑身性能  

Slenderizing ability of warp knitted seamless tunic blouse

作　　者：张吉生 吴志明 储云明 

机构地区：[1]江南大学经编技术教育部工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122 [2]宜兴市华宜针织有限公司,江苏无锡214253

出　　处：《纺织学报》2014年第3期109-114,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：教育部人文社会科学研究资助项目(09YJA760015);教育部人文社会科学研究青年基金项目(12YJC760070)

摘　　要：为了提高经编无缝女束身上衣的塑身性能,根据影响经编无缝束身上衣的工艺因素,织造13款不同成形工艺的样衣,通过三维人体测量研究成形工艺参数对经编无缝束身女上衣塑身效果的影响;并通过服装压力测试实验研究成形工艺参数对压力舒适性的影响。研究结果表明:花宽越小,经编无缝束身女上衣的塑身效果越好,服装压力舒适性越差;当胸围线牵拉密度越小且腰围线牵拉密度越大时,服装的塑身效果和压力舒适性越好;对160/84A号型,兼顾塑身效果和压力舒适性最佳工艺设置为花宽取500纵行,Sb取5横列/cm,Sw取11横列/cm。The aim of this study was to improve the slenderizing ability of warp knitted seamless tunic blouse. Therefore, 13 different clothing samples were knitted based on the technique parameters that affect the warp knitted seamless blouse. The impact of the technique parameters on the slenderizing effect of the warp knitted seamless tunic blouse was investigated by the 3-D body scanning, as well as the clothing pressure comfort by clothing pressure test. The research revealed that the greater the wale density, the better the slendering effect and the poorer the pressure comfort; and the smaller the stretch density of the breastline and the greater the stretch density of the waistline, the better the slenderizing effect and pressure comfort. Considering both the slenderizing effect and pressure comfort, the most reasonable technique parameters to the gament size of 160/84A are as follows： number of wale is 500, the Sb is 5 course/cm, and the Sw is 11 eourse/cm.

关 键 词：经编 女束身上衣 服装压 三维人体测量 塑身性能 

分 类 号：TS186.3[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]