机器褶与手工褶的设计组合艺术  

Art of combination design about mechanical and manual pleats

作　　者：许旭兵[1] 赵孟超[2] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装.艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]扬州职业大学纺织服装系,江苏扬州225008

出　　处：《纺织学报》2014年第3期115-120,共6页Journal of Textile Research

摘　　要：从形态特征的角度出发将机器褶及手工褶进行分类,阐述各类褶皱的肌理特征与设计特征,并通过案例分析法深入研究机器褶与手工褶设计组合的原则及形式,强调2种成褶方法的设计组合可提升服装的艺术审美性。选择服装品牌——Janetwear 2013年春夏采用工字褶设计的10款产品为研究对象,分析工字褶与各类手工褶的设计组合形式及对应的服装风格,以该品牌的固定消费群对研究对象的反应为标准进行评价。结果表明:采用机器褶、手工褶设计组合手法的服装产品风格趋向多元化,受消费者欢迎程度大于使用一种类型褶皱设计的服装产品,具备市场潜力及商业价值。This article classified mechanical and manual pleats from the perspective of morphological characteristics, expounded the texture characteristics and design features of various pleat, and studied in depth the design principles and forms of mechanical and manual pleats in the design process via case analysis, emphasizing that the combination design of this two kinds of methods into pleats forming helps to enhance the aesthetics of clothing. This paper selected ten products with H-shaped pleats from Janetwear 2013 spring/summer as the research object, and analyzed the combination design forms of H-shaped pleats and all kinds of manual pleats., as well as the clothing style formed after the combination. Based on the response of the brand＇s fixed consumer groups as standards to make evaluation. The results showed that： the styles of apparel products using combination design of mechanical and manual pleats become more diversified. This kind of apparel has greater popularity than that using only one type of pleating design and has market potential and commercial value.

关 键 词：机器褶 手工褶 设计组合 艺术效果 形态 风格 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]