PTT/桑蚕丝交织物的手感特征  

Hand Feeling Characteristics of PTT/Silk Interwoven Fabric

作　　者：朱思敏[1] 眭建华[1,2] 汪亮 潘志娟[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]苏州大学纺织与服装工程学院,江苏苏州215021 [2]现代丝绸国家工程实验室,江苏苏州215123 [3]四川依格尔纺织品有限公司,四川南充637000

出　　处：《丝绸》2014年第3期5-10,共6页Journal of Silk

基　　金：四川省重点技术创新项目(2012PT038)

摘　　要：为了将PTT纤维优异的弹性回复能力与丝绸优异的风格相结合,采用PTT长丝和桑蚕丝试制了15种PTT/桑蚕丝交织面料及1种纯PTT织物,此外还购买了3种真丝织物。用KES-FB-AUTO系列织物风格仪测试了与手感相关的16项力学性能指标,并以薄型女装面料为标准,计算了织物的硬挺度、平展度、柔顺度、丰满度、滑爽度和光滑度等6项基本手感风格值。对比分析了真丝织物和PTT/桑蚕丝交织物的手感特征,研究结果表明:与真丝面料相比,PTT/桑蚕丝交织物的硬挺度、平展度、滑爽度和光滑度值较低,而柔顺度和丰满度值较高。To combine the excellent elastic resilience of PTr fiber and excellent style of silk, this study uses PTT filament and mulberry silk to prepare 15 PTT/silk interwoven fabrics and 1 pure PTT fabric, buys 3 real silk fabrics, tests 16 mechanical property indicators related to hand feeling by using KES-FB-AUTO series fabric style instrument, calculates 6 basic hand feeling style values of fabrics-stiffness, flatness, suppleness, fullness, smoothness and scrooppy handle with thin type fabric for women＇s dress and conducts comparative analysis on hand feeling characteristics of real silk fabrics and PTT/silk interwoven fabric. The research result shows that, compared to real silk fabrics, PTT/silk interwoven fabrics have a lower stiffness, flatness, smoothness and scrooppy handle and higher suppleness and fullness.

关 键 词：聚对苯二甲酸丙二醇酯纤维 桑蚕丝 交织物 织物手感 

分 类 号：TS145.6[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]