镂空效果对针织毛衫外观风格的影响  

Influence of Hollow Effect on the Appearance and Style of Knitted Sweater

作　　者：王迪[1] 丛洪莲[1] 万爱兰[1] 吴志明[1] 

机构地区：[1]江南大学针织技术工程研究中心,江苏无锡214122

出　　处：《针织工业》2014年第4期30-32,共3页Knitting Industries

基　　金：国家科技支撑项目子课题(2012BAF13B03)

摘　　要：从针织毛衫的纱线选择、组织结构、后处理以及多针距4个方面,结合设计实例,阐述镂空效果在针织毛衫上的设计方法,探讨不同镂空效果对毛衫外观风格的影响。指出:纱线选取主要从单一纱线和不同纱线的组合设计方面来考虑;组织结构设计主要通过移圈、集圈、脱圈以及色块间无连接的嵌花设计等方法实现;后处理手法主要有烂花、裁剪、蕾丝拼接以及面料再造设计等;多针距设计采用隔针编织原理,通过利用不同弯纱深度和粗细针距的对比,实现通透与模糊的结合,创造丰富的花型效果。The paper analyzes the design method of hollow effect on knitted sweater from four aspects-yarn se-lection, stitch structure, post-processing and multi-gauge, and also discusses the influence of different hollow ef-fects on the sweater appearance and style. It points out that the yarn selection can be only one kind yarn or com-bination design of the different kind yarns; the stitch structure design can be loop transfer stitch, tuck stitch, knocking over stitch and the design of intarsia with no connection; the post-processing method includes burnt-out, cutting, introduction of laces, and fabric re-design; the multi-gauge design adopts alternative needles arrangement. The hollow effects design can be finished by different sinking depths and gauges to reach the combination of trans-parent and fuzzy and to obtain various pattern effects.

关 键 词：镂空 针织毛衫 风格 纱线选择 组织结构 后处理 多针距 

分 类 号：TS184.4[轻工技术与工程—纺织材料与纺织品设计]