着装方式的构成因子解析及其组合设计  

Analyzing constitutional factors of wearing style and its overall design

作　　者：王云仪[1,2] 皇甫孝东 张爱萍[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]东华大学服装.艺术设计学院,上海200051 [2]现代服装设计与技术教育部重点实验室(东华大学),上海200051 [3]东华大学功能防护服装研究中心,上海200051

出　　处：《纺织学报》2014年第5期102-107,共6页Journal of Textile Research

基　　金：国家自然科学基金资助项目(51106022);上海市教委科研创新项目(12ZZ068);上海市浦江人才计划项目(12510740)

摘　　要：传统意义上,一件服装的隔热值是固定的,但事实上同一件服装在不同穿着方式下会表现出不同的隔热性能。为此,将服装着装方式的变化解构为3个影响因子:服装对人体的覆盖面积、服装开口、服装局部面料堆积。基于这3个影响因子进行穿着方式可变的功能服装设计和研发。通过穿着实验进行人体工效客观测量实验和受试者主观感觉评价实验,针对服装的门襟开口量、衣袖整体的移除及折叠位置、前臂衣袖的移除(上挽)量进行定量设计和主观实验评价,完成了具有不同穿着方式的实验服装的设计方案优化,为后续研究中定量测评着装方式对服装隔热性能的影响提供参考。Generally, the thermal insulation value of an article of clothing is fixed. However, in fact, the same article of clothing exhibits different thermal insulation properties when worn on a person with different styles. Therefore, the change of wearing styles in this paper is assumed to have three factors that affect thermal insulation, that is, body surface area covered by clothing, clothing openings and sectional fabric wrinkled up. Based on the three factors, functioal clothing with wearing style changeable was designed and developed. The objective tests based on human ergonomics principles and the subjective evaluations in wearing trials were conducted. Some key elements were evaluated and optimized in clothing construction design, including the opening of top fly, the positions of detachable sleeves, and the positions of sleeves rolling up on forearms. Finally, the design program of clothing with wearing style changeable was optimized, thus laying a foundation for the follow-up experiments for quantitative evaluation of the effects of different wearing styles on clothing thermal insulation properties.

关 键 词：服装 着装方式 隔热性能 穿着实验 

分 类 号：TS941.2[轻工技术与工程—服装设计与工程]