山竹壳天然染料对真丝织物的染色工艺研究  

Study on Dyeing Process of Silk Fabrics with Natural Dye of Mangosteen Rind

作　　者：刘文凤[1] 余志成[1,2] 

机构地区：[1]浙江理工大学材料与纺织学院,杭州310018 [2]浙江理工大学生态染整技术教育部工程研究中心,杭州310018

出　　处：《现代纺织技术》2014年第3期20-23,共4页Advanced Textile Technology

摘　　要：从山竹壳中提取天然染料,并对真丝织物进行染色。研究了山竹壳天然染料对真丝的染色方法以及pH值、温度和硫酸钠用量对染色真丝织物K/S值的影响,对比分析了媒染剂种类和用量对媒染织物色牢度的影响。结果表明：与其他染色方法相比,后媒染方法染色织物的K/S值较高,表现出了一定的优势；山竹壳提取液染真丝织物的优化染色工艺为：pH值4,温度90℃,硫酸钠10g/L,时间为60min；优化媒染工艺为：硫酸铝钾相对织物质量分数为6%,硫酸亚铁相对织物质量分数为4%,后媒染时间30min。硫酸铝钾和硫酸亚铁的媒染真丝织物的日晒牢度达到了4级,皂洗牢度都达到了3～4级。硫酸亚铁媒染真丝织物的湿摩擦牢度为2～3级,干摩擦牢度为3级,硫酸铝钾媒染的真丝织物湿摩擦牢度为2级,干摩擦牢度为3级。This study extracts natural dye from mangosteen rind and dyes silk fabrics.It studies the influence of natural dye of mangosteen rind on real silk dyeing method and the influence of pH value,temperature and sodium sulfate dosage on K/S value of dyed silk fabrics and conducts comparative analysis on the influence of type and dosage of mordant on color fastness of mordanted fabrics.The result shows that,compared to other dyeing methods,fabrics dyed with post mordant dyeing method have a higher K/Svalue and show certain advantages;the optimal dyeing process of silk fabrics with mangosteen rind extracting solution is as follows：pH value：4,temperature：90℃,sodium sulfate：10g/L and time：60min;optimal mordant dyeing process is as follows：relative mass fraction of aluminium potassium sulfate：6%,relative mass fraction of ferrous sulfate：4%,post mordant dyeing time：30min.The light fastness of mordanted silk fabrics with aluminium potassium sulfate and ferrous sulfate reaches level 4and color fastness to washing reaches level 3～4.Color fastness to wet rubbing and color fastness to dry rubbing of mordanted silk fabrics with ferrous sulfate respectively reach level 2～3and level 3;those of mordanted silk fabrics with aluminium potassium sulfate respectively reach level 2and level 3.

关 键 词：山竹壳 天然染料 真丝织物 染色 媒染剂 

分 类 号：TS195.644[轻工技术与工程—纺织化学与染整工程]